I got the The Kurganovas limited Edition Box
I'm going to use the Kurganovas sisters as my commissar for my IG army I have done some conversion with some bitz
Over all good kit and nice casting alot of detail
A wargaming blog that follows games, and hobby progress.
Saturday, December 29, 2012
Raging Heroes
Hey all! Hope you had a Merry Christmas
I got the The Kurganovas limited Edition Box
I'm going to use the Kurganovas sisters as my commissar for my IG army I have done some conversion with some bitz
Over all good kit and nice casting alot of detail
I got the The Kurganovas limited Edition Box
I'm going to use the Kurganovas sisters as my commissar for my IG army I have done some conversion with some bitz
Over all good kit and nice casting alot of detail
Wednesday, December 5, 2012
Eldar Project: Code Mike O
LizzieBathorie here again and wanting to talk about Wraithguard!
There are 10 Wraithguard in this particular army and they were awesome to work on! I started with Simple Green cleaned models and primed them in grey armory primer http://www.thewarstore.com/armoryspraypreimergrey.html. I thought this would be a good choice in working with the yellow (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1500242a) for the helmets and the Altaoic blue for the main body. I used Tamiya Flat White Acrylic (http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam81302.html) for the base on the Wraith Cannon.
I also wanted the yellow to really pop, so I base-coated the helmets, back-piece and loincloth in Bleached Bone. I did an additional coat of the Bleached Bone as a layer because I liked how it complimented the blue and yellow, but wasn't as bright as the tamiya flat white.
Highlighting the Eldar was fairly simple. The sweeping lines of the helmet made it easy to add lighter and lighter layers of yellow. Lightening the yellow was done by adding just a dab of the Bleached Bone to the yellow with each layer. I highlighted the body armor with a bit of codex grey edging carefully around the armor plates and highlighting the fingers.
I put the Bleached Bone over the flat white on the cannons in thinned layers. This made the bleached bone go on smoothly. The gems I used Vallejo's Vermilion for the red gems.(http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/VLJ00070909/product.php?gclid=CJ_Ux-fThLQCFcxcMgodGF4AQg). I dabbed a tiny dot of flat white for a shine point and just darkened the lower bit of the gems and lightened the red for the upper part of the gems. If you want to see a very nice diagram of gems and how to paint them, take a look at this forum post (just scroll down a bit to see the chart). http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?72897-How-to-paint-eldar-gems
To finish things up, I used Seraphim Sepia shade to "wash" over the loincloth and the cannon. I concentrated the shade towards the end of the cannon's barrel. This created a nice g radiated "heat" look. I liked the way it came out and it was super easy.
There's more I could have done and I could have continued painting on these models for a long time, but I was happy with how they looked on the board and close up! Plus, we have so much more painting to do, so onward we must go! Onto the Howling Banshees!
I also wanted the yellow to really pop, so I base-coated the helmets, back-piece and loincloth in Bleached Bone. I did an additional coat of the Bleached Bone as a layer because I liked how it complimented the blue and yellow, but wasn't as bright as the tamiya flat white.
Highlighting the Eldar was fairly simple. The sweeping lines of the helmet made it easy to add lighter and lighter layers of yellow. Lightening the yellow was done by adding just a dab of the Bleached Bone to the yellow with each layer. I highlighted the body armor with a bit of codex grey edging carefully around the armor plates and highlighting the fingers.
I put the Bleached Bone over the flat white on the cannons in thinned layers. This made the bleached bone go on smoothly. The gems I used Vallejo's Vermilion for the red gems.(http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/VLJ00070909/product.php?gclid=CJ_Ux-fThLQCFcxcMgodGF4AQg). I dabbed a tiny dot of flat white for a shine point and just darkened the lower bit of the gems and lightened the red for the upper part of the gems. If you want to see a very nice diagram of gems and how to paint them, take a look at this forum post (just scroll down a bit to see the chart). http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?72897-How-to-paint-eldar-gems
To finish things up, I used Seraphim Sepia shade to "wash" over the loincloth and the cannon. I concentrated the shade towards the end of the cannon's barrel. This created a nice g radiated "heat" look. I liked the way it came out and it was super easy.
There's more I could have done and I could have continued painting on these models for a long time, but I was happy with how they looked on the board and close up! Plus, we have so much more painting to do, so onward we must go! Onto the Howling Banshees!
Project Eldar: Code Mike O
LizzieBathorie here ready to chime in on the Eldar Project. To summarize, Basementmini Mike and I are splitting the job of painting a large Eldar army for a buddy of ours. The bonus for me is more practice putting paint to model! And thus follows a cautionary statement: I am an amateur who loves to paint and I have my own way of doing it that is enjoyable and has a satisfactory outcome. So here we go!
The initial preparation of this army began with a careful inventory of the army. This army has been built over the course of decades with many owners and various paint schemes. My first challenge was cataloging this army. I had been previously completely unfamiliar with Eldar and didn't recognize most of the models, and so I relied pretty heavily on The Stuff of Legends (http://www.solegends.com/) for support. Especially after the figs took their Simple Green bath...and fell apart. The Stuff of Legends has the catalog listings from the 90s with great pictures and names and weapons clearly listed. Also, on most of the heavy support and fast attack, there are exploded diagrams which are aiding in my attempt to reassemble the tanks. We all know how tough it can be to find these types of helpful documents when it comes to GW.
The Simple Green bath was a bit more involved than I thought it would be. The army was about half painted, a quarter primed and a quarter not primed. I found that the models primed in GW primer were the toughest to strip. I guess that says something to the quality of the primer if anyone wanted to know! There were some that were "primed" in a satiny blue spray paint that I was nervous about. But that stuff sloughed off the easiest. I wasn't able to verify what that brand was. I also had troubles stripping off some bright orange paint off of the majority of the Guardians. I couldn't get that stuff off to save my life. I ended up using straight-up acetone to get that stuff off. And there are still some remnants of that on the plastic arms for the Guardians. I am hoping it will prime over easily. I was pleased that the thickly applied primer that was used came off easily as well. The majority of the metal models soaked for 24-48 hours and the paint came off with a stiff plastic brush. I wore long plastic gloves, an apron and goggles with plenty of ventilation. It sounds cheesy, but necessary. Simple Green is great stuff, but stinky. The persistent orange paint I let soak for 5 days and I scrubbed on these models for a long time. But I had to move on with the project.
There were many repeat models in this army along with several editions worth of model releases. So we had original Guardians mixed in with plastic newer Guardians. But this can be helpful when trying to keep squads separated. So these were all sorted out and bagged. I bagged models in like groups in resealable bags for ease of identification and marked on the outside of the bags the contents. Then all their weapons and banners would be with them in an attempt to keep any bitz from being lost. Which happened anyways.
At this point, Basementmini Mike was ready to take his portion of the army he was committed to painting. We discussed quite a bit the paint scheme for the Alaitoc Craftworld (http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Alaitoc#.UL_ToINZV2A) as well as the general form the army would take. The Guardians, Heavy Support, Jetbikes and the Wraithgaurd would all reflect the Alaitoc colors: Alaitoc blue bodies with yellow helmets and white armaments and accessories. This way, the majority of the army would have a visual cohesive quality to the battlefield. And striking colors at that!
This picture shows some of my committed half of the army. It's going to be so much fun working on this army!
The initial preparation of this army began with a careful inventory of the army. This army has been built over the course of decades with many owners and various paint schemes. My first challenge was cataloging this army. I had been previously completely unfamiliar with Eldar and didn't recognize most of the models, and so I relied pretty heavily on The Stuff of Legends (http://www.solegends.com/) for support. Especially after the figs took their Simple Green bath...and fell apart. The Stuff of Legends has the catalog listings from the 90s with great pictures and names and weapons clearly listed. Also, on most of the heavy support and fast attack, there are exploded diagrams which are aiding in my attempt to reassemble the tanks. We all know how tough it can be to find these types of helpful documents when it comes to GW.
The Simple Green bath was a bit more involved than I thought it would be. The army was about half painted, a quarter primed and a quarter not primed. I found that the models primed in GW primer were the toughest to strip. I guess that says something to the quality of the primer if anyone wanted to know! There were some that were "primed" in a satiny blue spray paint that I was nervous about. But that stuff sloughed off the easiest. I wasn't able to verify what that brand was. I also had troubles stripping off some bright orange paint off of the majority of the Guardians. I couldn't get that stuff off to save my life. I ended up using straight-up acetone to get that stuff off. And there are still some remnants of that on the plastic arms for the Guardians. I am hoping it will prime over easily. I was pleased that the thickly applied primer that was used came off easily as well. The majority of the metal models soaked for 24-48 hours and the paint came off with a stiff plastic brush. I wore long plastic gloves, an apron and goggles with plenty of ventilation. It sounds cheesy, but necessary. Simple Green is great stuff, but stinky. The persistent orange paint I let soak for 5 days and I scrubbed on these models for a long time. But I had to move on with the project.
There were many repeat models in this army along with several editions worth of model releases. So we had original Guardians mixed in with plastic newer Guardians. But this can be helpful when trying to keep squads separated. So these were all sorted out and bagged. I bagged models in like groups in resealable bags for ease of identification and marked on the outside of the bags the contents. Then all their weapons and banners would be with them in an attempt to keep any bitz from being lost. Which happened anyways.
At this point, Basementmini Mike was ready to take his portion of the army he was committed to painting. We discussed quite a bit the paint scheme for the Alaitoc Craftworld (http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Alaitoc#.UL_ToINZV2A) as well as the general form the army would take. The Guardians, Heavy Support, Jetbikes and the Wraithgaurd would all reflect the Alaitoc colors: Alaitoc blue bodies with yellow helmets and white armaments and accessories. This way, the majority of the army would have a visual cohesive quality to the battlefield. And striking colors at that!
This picture shows some of my committed half of the army. It's going to be so much fun working on this army!
Monday, December 3, 2012
The Quality of Quantity?
December 3, 2012
The Quality of Quantity?
Joseph Stalin, infamous Soviet dictator, is reputed to have said "Quantity has a Quality all its own". This was in response to questions about the "quality" of Soviet military equipment. In short, Stalin's point was "its ok if our gear sucks, its cheap and plentiful"
In 40k, there are several armies which embrace the "Quantity vs Quality" argument. In most people's minds, though, the ORKS are the poster-child for "TONS of inexpensive troops" I've listed below a non-exhaustive list of positives and negatives:
Positives:
Ground control: ability to clog up the board, Area denial. Hamper deep strike armies.
Defense: cover saves from intervening troops, threat of multiple counter-assaults
Offense: Flexibility in targeting, multiple-unit assaults, Reduce impact of Snap Shot penalty.
Negatives:
Victory Points: units of inferior troops are easier to kill out for victory points
Transport: reliance on transports to reduce foot-slogging infantry
Dice: Rolling 30 dice to force 3 saves takes game time.
Price-tag: Need for LOTS of models to make your points requires cash.
Detachment: Need to be able to lose huge numbers of troops without getting despondent.
On Snap Shots:
Snap shots have a major negative impact on Space Marine accuracy. Normally hitting 67% of the time, Marines are reduced to 17%. Marines "hit rate" is dropped to 25% of its normal number. Marines don't get "Tons of shots" because they are usually very accurate. Attempting to Snap-Fire at FLYERS with Marines is relatively uneffective. So much so that unless my units have nothing else to shoot at, they tend to ignore Flyers entirely.
Orks, on the other hand, are very poor marksmen. They normally hit 33% of the time. To compensate, they generally have "Lots of shots". Snap-Fire for Orks reduces them to the same 17% hit rate. However, this only cuts their "hit rate" to 50% of its normal value.
Ork Lootas get d3 S7 shots per model. Combine that large number of relatively high strength shots with the reduced impact of Snap Fire on ORK accuracy and you can see how ORKS are among the LEAST penalized armies when it comes to shooting at FLYERS.
Next Topic: The Quality of Quality
--Rory
The Quality of Quantity?
Joseph Stalin, infamous Soviet dictator, is reputed to have said "Quantity has a Quality all its own". This was in response to questions about the "quality" of Soviet military equipment. In short, Stalin's point was "its ok if our gear sucks, its cheap and plentiful"
In 40k, there are several armies which embrace the "Quantity vs Quality" argument. In most people's minds, though, the ORKS are the poster-child for "TONS of inexpensive troops" I've listed below a non-exhaustive list of positives and negatives:
Positives:
Ground control: ability to clog up the board, Area denial. Hamper deep strike armies.
Defense: cover saves from intervening troops, threat of multiple counter-assaults
Offense: Flexibility in targeting, multiple-unit assaults, Reduce impact of Snap Shot penalty.
Negatives:
Victory Points: units of inferior troops are easier to kill out for victory points
Transport: reliance on transports to reduce foot-slogging infantry
Dice: Rolling 30 dice to force 3 saves takes game time.
Price-tag: Need for LOTS of models to make your points requires cash.
Detachment: Need to be able to lose huge numbers of troops without getting despondent.
On Snap Shots:
Snap shots have a major negative impact on Space Marine accuracy. Normally hitting 67% of the time, Marines are reduced to 17%. Marines "hit rate" is dropped to 25% of its normal number. Marines don't get "Tons of shots" because they are usually very accurate. Attempting to Snap-Fire at FLYERS with Marines is relatively uneffective. So much so that unless my units have nothing else to shoot at, they tend to ignore Flyers entirely.
Orks, on the other hand, are very poor marksmen. They normally hit 33% of the time. To compensate, they generally have "Lots of shots". Snap-Fire for Orks reduces them to the same 17% hit rate. However, this only cuts their "hit rate" to 50% of its normal value.
Ork Lootas get d3 S7 shots per model. Combine that large number of relatively high strength shots with the reduced impact of Snap Fire on ORK accuracy and you can see how ORKS are among the LEAST penalized armies when it comes to shooting at FLYERS.
Next Topic: The Quality of Quality
--Rory
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